Day 2 - Ubud



Entrance to the bungalows
Puri Saraswati bungalows (actually a number of 2-storey stone buildings set within a very dense and lush complex) is a well-known venue in the centre of Ubud. It was built in the early 1970s by part of the then royal family who I believe still own it. It adjoins the Pura Taman Saraswati (Temple) which includes a large lotus pond. The temple is devoted to Dewi Saraswati the goddess of learning, literature and the arts and features a fine padmasana (lotus throne) beyond the lotus pond.

Breakfast consisted of fruit salad, tea or Balinese coffee (definitely not to be drunk with milk), eggs (poached eggs Balinese style is pretty different), toast with butter & jam and banana pancakes with palm sugar & coconut (I'm not to keen on cooked bananas so I'm having plain pancakes now). The staff are great and very friendly.

We decided to walk along Monkey Forest Rd after breakfast look at the shops - mainly selling tourist stuff and clothing, and interspersed with hotels and eateries. By hotels, I mean groups of cottages behind narrow entrances guarded by the usual collection of statues and shrines. It was pretty warm, but we continued on to the Monkey Forest, ominously showing a First Aid station near the entrance. The monkeys are notoriously aggressive, or at least unafraid, and will steal food, etc. from unsuspecting tourists.

A 'friendly' monkey
The sanctuary is larger than I remember, and so we spent quite a while exploring the area, including a sacred spring down in the valley - it was not only hot, but incredibly humid so it was like walking in a sauna. Photography was also difficult as the sunlight filtering through the jungle vegetation created areas of incredibly high contrast.

A woman making an offering
at the temple within Monkey Forest
We'd almost finished and were heading out when Frances decided to take a swig from her plastic water bottle. Before anyone knew what was happening, a monkey ran to Frances, up to her shoulder and stole the water bottle, spraying water everywhere.Frances was quite shocked by the suddenness of it all but fortunately she only received a scratch on her hand. Consequently we had to make use of the first aid station we'd seen at the entrance, attended by a nurse in an extremely highly air-conditioned room. It was almost too cold after the outside atmosphere. After washing/rinsing her hand for five minutes, the nurse disinfected the wound and allowed us to leave - she said she deals with about three bites a day, but fortunately the monkeys do not have rabies!

Mixed Juice drink with decoration
At the Tropical View Cae
We decided to walk back to Puri Saraswati along Hanuman Road which is quite similar to Monkey Forest Rd. Along the way we stopped for refreshment at the Tropical View cafe which did indeed have an excellent view of rice paddy fields - the first Frances had seen here. The overall cost of food and drink is quite low, although higher than outside Ubud and other tourist centres, and almost always presented well, with Balinese touches like hand-made decorations.

Pool in Puri Saraswati
By the time we arrived back at Puri Saraswati over 3 hours later, we were desperate for a swim in their pool which was immensely welcome after the long, hot walk. 

After the refreshing plunge, we met up with Tamar & John at Cafe Luna for lunch - one of the most well-know cafes in Ubud and run by Janet DeNeefe. She met a Balinese man from Ubud in 1984, and moved there. They own the Casa Luna and Indus restaurants, and more recently, Bar Luna. She has published a book on Balinese cooking and runs a Cooking School where people are taught the secrets of Balinese cooking. She also conceived and co-founded the the annual Ubud Writers Festival, as a healing project in response to the first Bali bombing, which is now a major annual event in Ubud.

Lunch in Cafe Luna
The food at Cafe Luna, although sounding quite pedestrian on the menu was very good. Frances & Tamar both had the Nasi Campur, a selection of small dishes serves with a 'cone' of the local pink/white rice. I had a seafood 'paella' made with a tomato-based sauce and saffron rice - really delicious - while John had a Tempe-based dish which he enjoyed as well.

After lunch, it was still hot, time for another plunge in the pool. Frances said it was the first time she'd seen me swim twice in one day!

View of the Barong performance
with the temple in the background
We decided to have dinner at next-door Lotus Cafe as Frances wanted to try the Rijsttafel which is a dish created when Indonesia was a Dutch colony, and is a type of banquet with many small dishes of different foods. the Cafe/restaurant backs on to the Lotus Temple - a beautiful spot to eat or just chill.

Blurry close-up of the Legong dance
About three times a week there are performances (mainly for tourists) in the temple and there happened to be one that night - Legong (female dancers) and Barong (storytelling). Although some distance away across the lotus pond, we could still see and hear (very clearly) the gamelan orchestra. We were so impressed that we decided to go to a performance if we had a chance.