 |
Komang pointing out some details in
the valley, with the ocean in the far
distance |
 |
Moung Agung, the inactive volcano
that erupted in 1963 and partially
destroyed the Water Palace |
After a quite simple
breakfast of eggs on toast, fresh juice and coffee, Frances and I went on a walking tour with
a local guide, Komang. 20% of the 'donation' for the guide goes to assist
elderly people in the area. Komang was very informative, and he explained a lot
about Tirtagangga and the local farming methods.
 |
| Local pineapple |
 |
Komang at the source of the
spring supplying the Water
Palace |
They not only grow rice (2
crops per year) but apply crop rotation and also grow vegetables, fruit and
medicinal herbs, used both locally and some sold for income. The Asian palm
civet is also native here and their dung is collected to make Luwak coffee,
which is not drunk here but sold as a commercial crop. Along with rice and
coffee, they grow taro, potatoes, corn, avocados, snake-skin fruit, mangoes,
mangosteen, pineapples, passion-fruit and jack-fruit - all of which we saw on the
tour.
We walked for about an
hour and a half around the upper rim of the valley with Komang filling us in on
the history of the area including the holy place where the spring emerges from the
hillside to feed the Water Palace
Even though we were walking
mainly under the shade of trees and within the jungle/forest, it was airless
and quite humid which was quite energy-sapping.
 |
The dyed threads prior to being
woven |
 |
| Weaving the Ikat fabric |
On the way, we visited a local
family that weave ikat cloth, and for the first time, I was interested enough
to buy a piece of fabric, something I rarely do.
The threads are dyed before weaving but I have no idea they manage to weave this multi-coloured thread into a formal pattern or design.
 |
| Genta Bali warung |
For lunch we ate at Genta
Bali warung, just opposite the Water Palace car-park. It's a two storey
restaurant, and we ate some traditional Balinese dishes upstairs where there
was a slight breeze and a pleasant view. I had a Mie Goreng (fried noodles)
which was a bit oily and Frances had delicious Pepes Ikan, fish
with herbs and spices wrapped and grilled in banana leaf. It was accompanied by
chips, but again soft and a bit oily. My theory of chips being better near the
ocean is still holding true.
 |
Sculpted pools and gardens in the
Water Palace |
In the afternoon we all
went to the Water Palace for a longer visit as well as a
swim. Holy water is fed by springs from Mount Agung some distance away falls through a
cluster of tiered pools until they exit at the lowest point. Everything is
gravity fed, in the same way as the well known terraced rice paddies
surrounding Tirtagangga.
 |
| Barong statue |
There are areas and pools set aside for washing and
ceremonies within the fairly large complex.
In addition there are gardens and
statues that are almost whimsical, including statues of the Barong. The Barong is a
lion-like creature and character in the mythology of Bali, leader of the hosts of good, and
enemy of Rangda, the demon queen and mother of all spirit guardians. The creature
is usually played by two dancers in one costume. The statues of the Barong in
the Water Palace were not of the mythical creature itself, but in fact statues of two people
in costume which is how it is often seen!
 |
| Locals enjoying an afternoon swim |
Again we enjoyed a
refreshing late afternoon swim in the cool water, interacting with the local
Balinese who were quite friendly, quite different to tourist attractions focused on the requirements of foreigners. There is however an expensive
resort type restaurant and luxury accommodation within the grounds which were formerly
only used by the Karangasem royal family.
Progress is effecting Tirtagangga
however, and a new 'money house' (ATM) station is being built near the car park.
That night we decided to
eat at Cafe Karma which is more expensive than the other eateries in the small
town. The food although good, was a little overpriced for the traditional
Balinese dishes that we ate.
